Chicken

On Sunday afternoon lunch was served in Bob and Stephane Rubins dining room. They started with an espresso cup containing an organic vegetable puree with mini croutons and pomegranate syrup. Course two featured angel hair pasta in a pool of Parmesan broth, topped with a greenhouse salad from Quail Hill tossed in a red wine vinaigrette and topped with 2 poached quail eggs. The fish course utilized red lentils 2 ways, poached in a shrimp/saffron stock and crushed and crusted on local skin on cod over asparagus. The trick with the red lentil crust seems to be a dip flesh side down in egg whites and then a press in the ground red lentil, transfer to a preheated skillet over high heat with a shot of grapeseed oil. The color was brilliant, everyone seemed pleased and the offered me the job. I accepted, we begin preparing the kitchen for year 2 of service on April 1.

Curry and I ran to the golf course today, then we walked to the 9th tee box and did some calisthenics over looking the ocean. She’s holding up well for a 13 year old lab. Our walks to the beach seem to give her a spark, Curry’s a happy dog. We saw the swans sailing about on the pond as we returned across the bridge. The sun was low in the sky, pink and orange bounced across the surface. The birds, surrounded by all the migrating ducks and geese that they share the pond with, stood out like sloops with shoots up amid a fleet of spectators in the America’s cup.

Tonight dinner came from Tony at Iaconna’s chicken farm. I purchased his last bird, already cut into 8 pieces. When I stepped in the door he asked me if the bird was going to be cooked tonight? It’s best to allow the freshly killed birds a day to rest prior to cooking. I was happy to purchase the pre cut chicken. When Curry and I stepped out of the car we walked over to the herb garden, dormant with the exception of rosemary which seems hardier than all other varieties in the soil. The chicken pieces were combined in a bowl with 3 cloves of garlic (peeled and crushed), a hand full of fresh rosemary, 2 tablespoons of olive oil and 3 tablespoons of Dijon mustard. When we returned from our walk I placed the contents of the bowl on a roasting pan, seasoned it with salt and pepper and placed it in a 375 oven for 20 minutes. When the bell rang it was time to add 6 peeled potatoes and roll them in the fat on the bottom of the pan. After another 10 minutes I added 1 head of broccoli cut into florets. The dish was ready 5 minutes later.

1 4 lb chicken cut into 8 pieces
3 cloves fresh garlic, peeled and crushed
3 tablespoons fresh rosemary, stems removed
3 tablespoons olive oil
6 small potatoes, peeled and rinsed
1 head of broccoli, cut into florets
salt & pepper

Phesant

The pond in February is a haven for ducks, geese, a few blue herons and the same 2 swans that draw my attention every time I walk the dog. Today could have been a scene from Dark shadows, a fog hung heavy over the East end. For the first time in a month I came across a deer crossing the 13th fairway, it watched me and then caught wind of the dog. Bounding left to right, white tail in full display it was gone in an instant.

A new chef position has come into view, in the end of January I heard that the new
Bridgehampton Golf club “The Bridge” has been searching for a sous chef. The idea of following someone elses lead was interesting to me so I followed up. After attempting direct contact to no avail I called my friend Marvin Shanken, a member of The Bridge and he opened the door. A few weeks later in mid February I was invited to meet with the clubs General manager Roger, that interview lead to a meeting with the owner Bob Rubin and his wife Stephane which lead to a test luncheon prepared with the executive chef Estelle at Rubin’s home in Watermill.

This recipe was taught to me by Estelle, an attractive well traveled French woman who
opened the kitchen at The Bridge last year for the first season. Our introduction started the day before the lunch at The Little Kitchen, she had been flown up from Florida to meet me and supervise a meal, allowing her to get to know me and work with me in an informal setting. Her menu included a watercress soup which was a simple puree of water cress, shallots, and a splash of cream finished with a swirl of crème fraiche and a garnish of pepper cress from the Quail hill green house. The main course was roasted pheasant stuffed with foie gras and truffles served with a cranberry puree and a toss of sautéed root vegetables from Quail Hills’ root cellar.

The pheasant recipe called for black truffles marinated in cognac for 48 hours with pepper corns and a pinch of salt. The pheasants were rinsed first then she placed a few sprigs of thyme in each pheasant cavity followed by ¼ lobe of foie gras and a few table spoons of truffles. She then sewed the stuffed birds shut, rolled them for a few minutes in a hot oiled pan and the placed them in a deep roasting pan. Important to note that prior to putting the lid on the pan she prepared a simple batter of flour and water and rimmed the Roasting pan with it the placed the lid on top. The dish was roasted at 375 for 1 hour, as it cooked the batter sealed the lid to hold in all essence.

Serves 4

2 pheasants (2.5 to 3lb. ea)
1 small lobe of foie gras
1 black perigord truffle sliced thin (marinate in cognac for 48 hours w/8 peppercorns )
1 bunch fresh thyme
1 cup flour
½ cup water salt & pepper to taste
1 cup grapeseed oil

Butternut squash soup

2 pieces butternut squash, split and seeded
2 cup turnips, peeled and diced
1 large celery root, peeled and quartered
½ cup Spanish onion ½ inch pieces
½ cup olive oil
2 cups chicken stock
½ cup white wine
1 cup heavy cream
salt & white pepper to taste

Pre heat oven to 375, rub all vegetables and place them on sheet pans.
Roast for 30-45 minutes until they begin to soften (onions will be ready first).
Bring the liquids to a simmer together in a soup pot.

When the butternut squash is soft remove the flesh from its shell and place in a food
processor, run on low setting slowly drizzling the hot liquid in as you puree, then add the rest of the vegetables cut into smaller pieces. When the whole recipe is in the processor (or blender) run on high for 30 seconds or until smooth then taste and season.

Serve with small croutons and a drizzle of reduced pomegranate juice or pomegranate molasses.

Sea Scallop Schnitzel

As winters go this has been mild, no heavy freeze, very little snow, plenty of weekday customers at The Little Kitchen. A nice change from past winters filled with snow plowing, frozen pipes and empty dining rooms.

The same pair of swans move about on Hook pond enjoying the mild winter. My neighbor Lisa Ryan told me that another Dunemere lane resident Doug Mercer saved the frozen swan and delivered it to the wild life rescue center. Apparently the approach that worked involved walking out on the ice and placing a cloth bag over the bird's head. This calms them enough to move to a safer place. As for the remaining pair they spend most of their time working in the same location of last springs nest.

In the last week of January on the 26th, a Saturday night we hosted a German Inspired Dinner featuring wines from the Wolffer estate. I was pleased to watch as the reservation book filled up in the hours that followed the news letters release to the people on Wolffers’ List. In the end 65 people attended the 2 seatings. We started with a butternut squash soup finished with croutons and pomegranate molasses served in an espresso cup. The first course was a sea scallop schnitzel, a suggestion form Charlie Palmer, plated with micro greens and a whole grain mustard hollandaise. Course 2 utilized whole wheat pappardelle noodles tossed in a sauce made with shitake mushrooms, shallots, chicken stock, herbs, sour cream and heavy cream. It was finished with a garnish of chanterell mushrooms that were tossed in garlic oil and roasted then rolled in chopped fine herb. The meat course featured pork shoulder braised in Wolffer Big Apple Wine, served over greens from the Quail hill green house with sweet potato batons and the apple wine reduction. Dessert made use of Fuji apples from the Milk Pail in Watermill, tossed with cinnamon, raisins and walnuts and rolled in filo pastry brushed with butter. Roasted and cut into 2 inch cylinders, the “Apple Strudel” was plated with vanilla bean whipped cream.

Sea Scallop Schnitzel

2 lb 10-20 sea scallops
3 cups squid bodies, sliced into thin rings
½ cup shallots
2 cups Wolffer ver juice
¾ cup egg whites
2 cups panko bread crumbs
½ cup chopped parsley & oregano
½ tablespoon sea salt
1 cup grapeseed oil

Combine the squid rings, shallots and ver juice (or white wine) in a sauce pan over low heat, bring to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes. Remove from heat and strain, allow the squid to cool then puree in a food processor or blender with egg whites. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the herb and salt.

Slice the scallops into 3 thin pieces, maintining the round shape. If they still have the cartaledge

remove tose tough pieces first.

Set a baking sheet on the counter and then line the bottom of a foil cupcake cup with 3 pieces of scallop then add a spoonful of squid puree and top with 3 more scallop slices. Then flip the cup over onto the sheet pan and repeat until you are finished with the squid mixture. It should yield about 12 cakes.

Preheat the oven to 375 about 20 minutes before service and place ½ of the oil in a flat bottom skillet over medium flame. Now dust the cakes with panko and pat the breadcrumbs down then flip the cakes over and repeat. Place the cakes in the skillet 3 at a time cooking for about 2 minutes until brown on each side then transfer to a baking sheet in the oven (refresh the oil ½ way through) bake the cakes for 10 minutes than serve immediately with a micro green and blanched celery salad in citrus vinaigrette.