Wolffer Memorial: Rooster Ragu

The room was full of friends and family celebrating the life of Christian Wolffer, the gentleman farmer who established the stables, vineyards and winery at the Wolffer Estate in Sagaponack New York. On Sunday afternoon, as a cool breeze chased the crowd into Christian's tasting room his son Marc stood on the stage, holding his glass up to toast his father. Before his toast Marc told the story of how his sisters joined him in his fathers' bedroom just days after the sad funeral in January, they addressed his socks drawer first. Marc is proud to tell the story of how his pop had no grey or black socks, only the colors of a rainbow, Christian was not a boring man.

As the crowd thinned, those who were closest to Christian (many had traveled across oceans to be there) made their way to the conference room facing the west at sunset. My team had set a buffet specifically to serve those who may have missed food that had been passed about during the hours that focused on memorializing their boss, friend and father. Too much talking to sample the duck tacos or sweet corn and guajillo quesadillas that. On the buffet along with fresh corn bread and handmade tamales we presented a Rooster Ragu.

The idea of using roosters came from a visit with Tony at the Iaconno chicken store in East Hampton a few years ago. On occasion, when business is brisk and the 3 pound hens sell out he'll offer a rooster and his mom (handling the cash and selling eggs) will remind the buyer that roosters need a long time in the pot. This recipe is the result of one of those conversations.

1 7-8 lb. rooster (or large roasting chicken)
2 cups sliced button mushrooms
6 slices bacon
1 cup diced onion
1/2 cup diced celery
1/2 cup diced carrots
4 cloves garlic, crushed and chopped
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup crushed adobo chili (or other dried smoked mild chili)
16 oz crushed tomatoes (look for Muir Glen organic tomato)
3 tablespoons tomato paste
16 oz chicken stock
16 oz pozole (canned or rehydrated)
salt & pepper to taste

Start a day in advance by roasting the chicken for 2.5 hours @ 350.
Remove from oven and allow to cool. Reserve all dippings for stock. When the chicken is cool remove all of the meat from the bone and slice the breast pieces into 3 or 4 chunks. Set the meat aside and make stock with all refuse. Meanwhile slice and dice vegetables and crush chili. After the stock has been simmering for 45 minutes begin to assemble the ragu in an roasting pan 3 or 4 inches deep (big enough to hold all ingredients).Place a large sauté pan on medium flame and bring the bacon to crisp, remove and chop fine. Now, using the bacon fat soften the celery, onion, carrots and garlic.

When the vegetables have softened place half of the contents of the pan in the base of the roasting pan then add the chicken pieces, top with the rest of the vegetables and the bacon.
Next, using the same pan add the olive oil and the mushrooms and soften them, spread mushrooms on top of the chicken the sprinkle the chili over the top.
Finally, in the same pan combine the hot chicken stock with the tomato products (2) and the drained pozole, season liberally and pour over the top of the chicken in the roasting pan. Wrap the pan with plastic and refrigerate over night.

As dinner time comes into view (2 hours prior) bring your oven to 350 and remove the raguand the plastic wrap, now cover with foil and place in the oven. As the ragu cooks prepare whatever rice appeals, we like brown basmati in my house. Serve with corn bread and a seasonal salad.

Lobster and Roasted Beet Salad

Hold the elevator, Jessica's on crutches. In Manhattan that doesn't happen too often, tonight was no exception. After receiving first class supervision from a friendly doorman at one of New York's finest hotels we followed a single woman in too much of a hurry to the elevator, she jumped on in front of us and pushed the button before we could step on.

Dinner was served on the 3rd floor an hour later. Jessica and I were in the company of friends, Karen and Peter Lawson Johnston, we all were interested in what the speaker Tom Brokaw had to say. Mr. Brokaw has spent the better part of his life reporting world events to the American public. Tonight he stood in the middle of a room full of Americans, talking about his view of our world today.

As an introduction he touched on significant phrases that he's heard over the past few weeks. The point that stood out for me came from his boss at NBC, the difference between historical economic adjustments and the present financial status...."think of it as a reset". Of course the challenging times we face require a word from our new vocabulary, RESET.. has no boundaries.

Brokaw went on to focus on who we are and how we must change our view. On more than one point he reminded the audience that we're "all in this together". Over the past several years the common view has been singular "it must become more about we than me". Of course he sited the "Greatest Generation" and how our grandparents made an effort to serve the people around them before they served themselves. He reminded this audience of sophisticated New Yorkers that it's become time to once again become a CITIZEN.

As we sat for dinner the first course was pre set at the table, a salad of mixed arugula and beet sprouts over thinly sliced roasted red beets and a few wedges of yellow beets. The salad was finished with a simple vinaigrette it could have been perfect, however over the top sat a sliced lobster tail.

Perhaps as our culture shifts from "me to we" the lobster tails might be better served on a dock, fresh from the kettle in all of it's goodness. In a more relaxed society our fellow citizens might wait for the slower paced citizens among us as our grandfathers would have done.
Let's slow down and hold the door.