Colin's Chronicles

3 Sprout Sandwich w/ Pinenut Cream & Parsley Puree

2009-11-13T22:29:00.008-05:00

Tomorrow night will mark my first vegetarian tasting effort, 5 courses served with Organic wine from the Heller Estate in Carmel Valley California. This dish will start the evening off. As the menu developed I was concerned that there might not be enough substance to satisfy a hungry guest. Having tasted this dish I now feel confident that we will more than fulfill the goal of providing complete nourishment with tasty variety.

1 butternut squash, peeled and sliced thin on a mandoline
1 spicy turnip, peeled and sliced thin on a mandoline
1 cup lentil sprouts
1 cup sunflower sprouts
1/2 cup alfalfa sprouts
1 cup pine nuts (soak in filtered water over night)
1 garlic clove
2 shallots
1 cup parsley leaves
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
1 lemon, juiced
1/2 cup water

Start by placing the butternut quash slices on an oiled baking sheet and roast @ 35 for 10 minutes.

Drain the pinenuts.

Place the pinenuts in a blender and begin running on low, add 1/2 of the olive oil and the garlic and shallots then run at a higher speed, add the lemon juice and 1/2 of the salt, add water as needed. Remove from the blender when smooth.

To plate place the sliced turnips on the plate (3 pieces per plate) then mix most of the sprouts with the pinenut cream (save enough of each sprout variety for garnish). Now place 3 tablespoons of the sprout mix on each plate over the turnips. Top with the butternut squash slices.

Finally combine the parsley with remaining oil and salt and run until smooth. Use a spoon to drizzle over the top of the butternut squash and on the plate. Garnish w/ remaining sprouts and serve.

Juicy Naam vegetarian tasting, dish #3

2009-11-12T17:10:00.003-05:00

As the fall season sets in, creative programing becomes standard practice here at The Little Kitchen. I reach out to those who have a following in the food business but need a room to touch the customer. In this case the lovely Giulianna Torre from East Hamptons' Juicy Naam has agreed to team up with me. We've created a vegetarian tasting menu supported by wine pairings from the Heller Estate, an organic winery and vineyard that's been making wine in Carmel Valley California organically for over 30 years.

Last month, as the leaves began to turn we sat down and discussed our goal of creating a menu specific to vegetables and grains. During our chat, as we were bouncing ideas for quinoa around, Giulianna mentioned a memorable dish that she enjoyed in Manhattan, back in September at The Waverly Inn. She went on to describe a combination of organic red quinoa and diced vegetables with a sensuous green curry sauce, "but how to prepare it? What were the main ingredients?" I asked.

As it turned out she was so swept away by the dish that documenting the method never crossed her mind. Luck has it that the chef at Manhattans' hottest ticket (The Waverly Inn), John Delucie, happens to be a friend so I sent him an email requesting clues. His response was swift and simple. With his notes and my team, the following recipe has been organized from the stoves at Estia's Little Kitchen for service this weekend.

The phone is ringing, tables are booking up and it looks like creative programming is coming to the rescue. If wish lists came true I'd like to have Henry Heller and John Delucie in the house too. Regardless, I'll be happy with smiling customers and my new pal Giulianna.

Stage 1:

Soak 2 cups Organic Red Quinoa in 3 cups of water for at least 4 hours, over nightis best.
1 butternut squash peeled, dice the stem and core the base, slice the base into 4 rounds
place rounds on a roasting pan in 1/2 inch of water and roast for 30 minutes @ 350.
2 large red peppers, toss with olive oil and roast with the squash in a separate pan.
Remove from the oven when completely soft and place in a steel bowl covered w/ plastic wrap.
1 carrot, diced into pieces the same size as the squash
1 leek, diced the rinsed until clean in cold water.
1 large portabello mushroom top, diced
For service remove peppers from the bowl, skin and seed them.
Be sure to reserve the liquid for the Quinoa.
Next slice the peppers into 4 square pieces of equal size.
4 garlic cloves, diced
8 shallots, diced
2 tablespoons olive oil
12 ounces coconut milk
3 tablespoons green curry paste
Bring the shallots and garlic to a sizzle w/ oil over medium heat, when soft add the coconut milk then simmer. Combine with curry paste in a blender at high speed.
In a sauce pan soften the diced squash, mushrooms and leeks then add the drained quinoa and stir. Next, add all of the pepper liquid followed by 2 cups warm water, season with salt and stir.
Finally reheat the butternut squash rounds and the pepper squares on an oiled sheet pan.
Assemble the dish on warm plates by filling the squash rounds with hot quinoa, top with the pepper squares and pour the curry sauce around as you like.

BRAISED CHILI-RUBBED LAMB SHANKS

2009-10-16T13:46:00.002-04:00

Cooking for a living "is hardly glamorous" as Peter Sherwood suggests in his recent Cookingvillage.com piece, Celebrity Bites. And there are times—especially when I find myself slaving over a hot stove during the height of a dinner rush—I have to agree. But that doesn’t mean it can’t be a labor of love, or extremely rewarding in the end. And, sometimes, the most unglamorous cooking methods yield the sexiest dishes.

Being in charge of the menus at my restaurants gives me a great deal of freedom, taking me out of the kitchen (with its attendant hot stove) to explore and taste. Most often, inspiration comes to me from cookbooks. When I’m looking for juice, I often find myself walking the racks of used bookstores; the tomes that usually catch my eye offer more stories than they do recipes, more process than precision. My favorites share tales of kitchen lore, and Richard Olney’s biography, Reflections, is at the top of the heap. Olney tackles the subject of braising in the book, instructing the reader on the art of making a good daube. According to the author a daube—or a traditional French beef dish—must have at least three days between leaving the butcher’s shop and hitting the plate. Day one involves seasoning and browning in a bit of lard surrounded by aromatic vegetables. A stock is then added, and the whole thing is brought to a simmer before being covered and tossed into an oven for several hours at 350 degrees. After the requisite time as passed, the dish is removed from the oven and the meat removed from the pan. The stock is strained and then poured over the meat. And then the meat and stock are stashed in the back of a fridge, where it will sit and soften for the next 24 hours. On day two, the meat is removed from the fridge and the fat is skimmed from the top (talk about unglamorous). As a reward, the cook can now open a bottle of red and add as much as he feels he wants to share with the stock to it before tucking into the vino himself. The meat is returned to braise in the oven for the second time, again at 350 degrees. Two hours later it’s removed again and—we’re not even close to done here—returned again to the depths of the chiller until ready to serve. When service approaches on the third day, the meat is removed, the fat once again skimmed and the whole pot is brought to a simmer on the stovetop. A bit of salt and pepper are added—as well as some fresh herbs—and then, 72 hours later, it’s ready to be eaten. Is the above process glamorous? Hardly. But the dish—glistening under a rich sauce and mouth-wateringly fragrant—certainly is. To make the dish successful, you’ve got to plan ahead. This is not just my advice, but Olney’s too—and it’s one that I’ve found works well for me. It allows me time to step out of the kitchen and listen to my customers’ thoughts on the meals before them. Often, their thoughts turn to praise—something I’m always eager to hear. After all, some of us got into the biz for the glamour of it all.

Chili Rubbed Lamb Shanks w/ Butternut Squash Puree & Sauteed Swiss Chard
serves 4

2 "deluxe" lamb shanks (2-3 lb ea. If you can’t get shanks that big, just get as many as it takes to reach about 6 lbs)
2 dried guajillo chilies, seeded and pureed in a coffee grinder (if you can’t find guajillo’s, substitute 4 tablespoons of chili powder)
2 tablespoons of smoked paprika
2 tablespoons of garlic powder
1/4 cup reserved bacon fat or crisco
2 large onions, peeled & chopped
4 carrots, peeled and chopped
4 celery stalks, chopped
1 quart chicken stock
1 small can of tomato paste
12 oz. red wine
1/2 bunch parsley, stems removed and chopped
1/2 bunch cilantro, stems removed and chopped
1/2 bunch marjoram, stems removed and chopped

1. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Rinse the lamb shanks then pat it dry. Mix the chili powder, paprika, and garlic powder together, then rub the shanks all over with the seasoning.
2. In a large skillet over medium/high heat bring the oil to temperature, then add the seasoned shanks to the pan and brown them all over. Now add the vegetables and continue to stir until soft.
3. Reduce the heat to medium, and then add the chicken stock and tomato paste to the pan. When the mixture comes to a simmer, cover the dish and place it in the oven for two hours.
4. After two hours have elapsed, remove the pan from the oven. Next, remove the shanks from the pan and place them in a bowl. Strain the stock over the bowl, so that only stock goes in with the shanks. Compost the refuse if possible and place the shanks in the stock in the refrigerator overnight.
5. On Day 2, remove the shanks from the cooler and skim the fat off the top. Preheat your oven to 350, again. Place the stock and shank back in a small braising pan and bring to a simmer on the stovetop. While that comes to a simmer, clean your herbs from the stems and set the herbs aside for the next day. Add the wine and the herb stems to the braising pan to infuse the stock.
6. Place the dish in the oven for another two hours. When two hours have passed, remove the shanks to the bowl and strain the stock over it as you did before. Cover and chill in the fridge once more.
7. Finally, Day 3! Remove the shanks from the fridge and skim the fat from the top again. Put stock into the braising pan and bring to a simmer over medium high heat on the stovetop to reduce the stock by half. While the stock simmers, place the shanks on the cutting board and carefully pull the meat from the bone.
8. When the stock has been reduced, place the lamb meat into the stock until warmed through. Just before serving, taste and add extra salt if needed. Add the chopped herb, and serve.
Cooks note: To each plate, I like to add ½ cup of steamed spinach seasoned with sea salt as well as ½ cup of roasted butternut squash puree seasoned with butter and sea salt. Ideally, I like to arrange the shards of meat like spikes between the sides, before drizzling the sauce all over.

Apple and Camembert Harvest Salad

2009-10-05T21:00:00.010-04:00

A period sits at the end of my 2009 season, regularMonday afternoon trips to Manhattan commence. Today I chose to drive, not my normal choice as I find the Jitney far more productive, faster, safer and more "footprint friendly". However it is my duty to return Oliver (corgi) to his "regular" routine as a Central Park tree sniffer.

After a productive lunch shift @ The Little Kitchen we set off on the back roads, as the turn onto North Sea Mecox came into view it occurred to me that the Islands' best apples were on sale on the east side of the triangle. I've been told that the trees on this triangle are special but nevermade time to stop, today was the day for a taste (and for Ollie a last pee) before hitting the LIE.

As we approached I noticed that the table was full and the proprietor on site, she was overjoyed with Oliver & we made friends quickly. I was looking for 2 specific apples, one soft for baking and one crisp and sweet for a matchstix cut that would compliment a sharp cheddar sliced the same way.

When I asked she smiled and told me that it had been a few years since she had taken a bite of her apples,"Hard to keep track with so few teeth". The transaction was easy, she had a mixed bag that offered enough for me to make my own choice. It also reminded me how things should be, teach yourself then make your own decisions. A crisp, sweet apple tells it's own story, a good baker will be softer, rounder and less assertive on the first bite. In time, if you live near the trees you'll know which one produces the best results from an oven or on the breakfast table. If you don't know the tree let the first bite guide the menu.

Apple and Camembert Harvest Salad

serves 4

1 good baking apple
1 crisp sweet apple
1 small wheel camembert
1 small piece sharp white cheddar
10 stems flat leaf parsley
1 lemon
1/4 cup apple cider
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Remove the core from the apple, don't peel it,but remove the core with a thin knife top to bottom. Place the apple on a small baking sheet and pour 1/2 cup of water on the sheet then wrap with foil.Place in the oven @ 400 for 25 min. or until soft butstill firm. Remove and chill.

Just prior to service slice the crisp apple into thin match sticks and place in a bowl. Then slice the same amount of cheddar to the same size and combine.

Remove the baked apple from the fridge and sliceit into thin wedges, then place a slice of camemberton each plate. Top each slice of cheese with a quartetod baked apple slices and then top the apple slices with a smaller piece of cheese (from the rind cut).

On the opposite side of the plate create a pile (2 tablespoons)of the crisp apple/ cheddar matchstix. Garnish with parsley stems and touch the parsley with drops of vinaigrette.

To make Vinaigrette combine the juice of 1 lemon with apple cider and olive oil, pour into a squeeze bottle and shake.You'll have lot of extra apple cider vinaigrette so hold itcold for your next fall salad.

East End Linguine w/ striped bass and clams

2009-10-03T18:33:00.003-04:00

Linguine and clams, they go together like peanut butter shares white bread with jelly. My challenge this week was to introduce a dish that presented what I think is the best our East End fall harvest has to offer.

Of course striped bass has to share top billing, the migration is in full swing. Steamed top neck clams play an important supporting role, primarily because of the wonderful broth that results,as the clams steam in a pool of shallot infused chardonnay. For color I turn to Quail Hill farm for a mixture of peppers, one red bell and one yellow habinaro, the later provides essential heat, use caution when handling and take care dicing both fine. Finally a clove of garlic or 2 and a dusting of fresh parsley, harvested from the nearest herb box.

Since the editors of Edible East End have requested dishes that are as locally sourced as possible, we turned to the Crescent Duck Farm in Cutchouge on Long Island's North Fork, about 15 miles west (as the crow flies). The linguine is made in house with a mixture of semolina flour, durum flour, duck eggs and water.

Prior to service the first task requires a lidded pot large enough to accommodate all of the clams (rinsed ahead of time). Begin on a medium flame with1/2 of the oil and all of the shallots, when the shallots have softened add the clams and then the wine. Cover and steam until all of the clams have opened. Then remove the clams from their shells, strain the broth and store together in the refrigerator until service.

When cooking the pasta it's important to begin with water that's at a rolling boil, salted well.Fresh pasta cooks quickly so prior to placing the pasta in the water bring a sauce pan to temperature over a high flame, add the oil and garlic, as the garlic begins to spit add the clam juice and then the bits and pieces of bass, finally add the chopped clams and peppers,now reduce the flame to low.

In the pasta pot, water boiling like a crazy, drop the pasta in and stir. After 1 and a half minutes the pasta should be removed with tongs and transferred to the clam/ bass mixture straight away. Stir and plate. Then dust with parsley and serve.

To serve 4 adults:

1 lb fresh linguine

18-24 top neck clams

1/2 lb striped bass (diced into small pieces)

1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced fine

1 small habinero chili, steamed and seeded diced fine

2 large cloves garlic, sliced

1/4 cup chopped parsley

2 cup chardonnay

4 shallots, chopped

1/4 cup olive oil

Bluefish Tostadas

2009-09-14T19:25:00.005-04:00

As a rule a flyguide off Montauk seeks birds in order to find Bluefish, as the fish push the bait to the surface, terns & gulls flock and feed from above signaling the schools position for miles around. The trick to hooking Blue fish today was in the countdown, after a good cast from the bow of Capt. Brian's 21 foot boat the countdown began, after reaching 30 it was time to strip the line. The birds signaled us in to a spot 2 miles of the cliff edged beaches west of the point. It was Brian's fish finder that suggested we remain, and succeed for 3 hours catching Bluefish up to 12 pounds.

This dish is the result of our summer seasons progress, the tomatoes are ripe and brilliant, peppers abound, cabbage is on the stand in several different varieties and the Bluefish are fat and feisty.

Bluefish Tostadas
1 lb fresh bluefish filet, skin on
1 red onion, sliced thin
2 jalepeno chilies, seeded and diced
2 cloves garlic, sliced thin
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoon lime juice
salt
12 corn tortillas

Bring the oven to 400 degrees and place the fish filets skin side down on a baking sheet. In a skillet bring the oil to heat over a medium flame then add the chilies and onion, as they soften season the fish with salt then add the lime juice to the pan, stir and spoon the contents of thepan over the filets. Now place in the oven for 15 minutes.

2 cups napa or savoy cabbage, sliced thin
1/2 red onion, sliced thin
2 tablespoons lime juice
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
15 cilantro leaves, chopped
1 avocado diced
1 ripe tomato, diced
pinch of salt

Combine all in a bowl and toss then plate on warm tortillas,top with bluefish and serve. Be sure to include the roasted onions and peppers on the fish servings. Garnish with lime.

BBQ ribs are best prepared as you make the sauce

2009-06-10T16:18:00.000-04:00

Pork Ribs 9 sides
Mirpoix 1 quart
Chicken stock 2 gallons
White wine 1 quart
Salt pepper
Jalipeno 3 pc

Two weeks ago Scot Chasky gave me a packet of red runner beans. The germination rate was about 60 percent at The Lodge, 100 percent at The Litltle Kitchen. Each seedling has structure to reach out to, I can see the first shoots coming off the stem surrounded by big heart shaped leaves. Across from the beans each garden sports garlic shoots that are reaching for the sky, days away from opening, slowly curling from the roots that swell under the surface.

Family dinner tonight included a steamed Jasmine rice, sautéed broccoli with ginger, garlic and peppers and grilled chicken in a similar marinade. The chicken breast was grilled over a new flame because of time instead of my usual routine of throwing it on a pre heated grill. The chicken was in the marinade for 30 minutes prior to grilling.

For the Similar Marinade:

8 cloves of garlic
1 large knob of garlic, peeled and chopped (1/4 cup)
1 red pepper, seeds and stem removed
1/2 cup blended oil
¼ cup lime juice

Oyster mushrooms carmalized w/ garlic scapes over spring greens

2009-06-08T20:22:00.007-04:00

What's real, what isn't? The mushroom man, he's real. His name is Daveand the mushrooms he sell taste awesome. I first met Dave at the Little Kitchen a few years ago. It was a Sunday morning in November, he chose the BuffaloSteak and Eggs for breakfast. The dish made him happy and he shared that with me.

Since that time, I've seen Dave at the farmers market in Sag Harbor. His offerings are exotic, many of which come from his production. Never stopped to buy, why I'm not sure. Perhaps it's just a barrier that he had to break and he did. Last Friday, after the market day had passed and I was breaking down my pasta stand, I found a brown paper bag. The Mushroom Man had shared his oyster mushrooms with me. This is a gesture that to me suggests a greeting, a welcome to the club of sorts.

Tonight for dinner the feature was oyster mushrooms, first tossed in equal parts of reduced balsamic vinegar, soy sauce and olive oil then caramelized in a cast iron skilletwith thinly sliced garlic scapes.

The mushrooms meaty flavor compliments a roughly chopped salad of pea sprouts,spring spinach and arugula. Not only did this meal celebrate the gift of Dave's oyster mushrooms it also defined the first harvest at Quail Hill. On SaturdayWhittier joined me in the lower gardens, snipping spinach then arugula, followedby a walk up to the field east of the apple orchard in search of pea shoots.
The result needs no dressing, simply place the cleaned, chopped spring greens ineach bowl and top with equal parts of caramelized oyster mushrooms, be sure topour any remaining liquid over the mushrooms, serve hot.
To serve 4 as a starter:
4 cups chopped fresh oyster mushrooms
2 cups fresh cleaned arugula
2 cups fresh spring spinach
1 bunch pea shoots, remove thick stems
4 tablespoons reduced balsamic vinegar
4 tablespoons soy sauce
4 tablespoons olive oil
6 garlic scapes, sliced into thin pieces
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
Start with vegetable oil in a cast iron skillet over medium heat, add garlic scapes and stir for 3 minutes then add the chopped mushrooms after they've been tossed with the olive oil, vinegar and soy. Turn up the heat and stir often, when the mushrooms have caramelized transfer them to the bowls filled with greens and serve.

Wolffer Memorial: Rooster Ragu

2009-04-23T16:39:00.009-04:00

The room was full of friends and family celebrating the life of Christian Wolffer, the gentleman farmer who established the stables, vineyards and winery at the Wolffer Estate in Sagaponack New York. On Sunday afternoon, as a cool breeze chased the crowd into Christian's tasting room his son Marc stood on the stage, holding his glass up to toast his father. Before his toast Marc told the story of how his sisters joined him in his fathers' bedroom just days after the sad funeral in January, they addressed his socks drawer first. Marc is proud to tell the story of how his pop had no grey or black socks, only the colors of a rainbow, Christian was not a boring man.

As the crowd thinned, those who were closest to Christian (many had traveled across oceans to be there) made their way to the conference room facing the west at sunset. My team had set a buffet specifically to serve those who may have missed food that had been passed about during the hours that focused on memorializing their boss, friend and father. Too much talking to sample the duck tacos or sweet corn and guajillo quesadillas that. On the buffet along with fresh corn bread and handmade tamales we presented a Rooster Ragu.

The idea of using roosters came from a visit with Tony at the Iaconno chicken store in East Hampton a few years ago. On occasion, when business is brisk and the 3 pound hens sell out he'll offer a rooster and his mom (handling the cash and selling eggs) will remind the buyer that roosters need a long time in the pot. This recipe is the result of one of those conversations.

1 7-8 lb. rooster (or large roasting chicken)
2 cups sliced button mushrooms
6 slices bacon
1 cup diced onion
1/2 cup diced celery
1/2 cup diced carrots
4 cloves garlic, crushed and chopped
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup crushed adobo chili (or other dried smoked mild chili)
16 oz crushed tomatoes (look for Muir Glen organic tomato)
3 tablespoons tomato paste
16 oz chicken stock
16 oz pozole (canned or rehydrated)
salt & pepper to taste

Start a day in advance by roasting the chicken for 2.5 hours @ 350.
Remove from oven and allow to cool. Reserve all dippings for stock. When the chicken is cool remove all of the meat from the bone and slice the breast pieces into 3 or 4 chunks. Set the meat aside and make stock with all refuse. Meanwhile slice and dice vegetables and crush chili. After the stock has been simmering for 45 minutes begin to assemble the ragu in an roasting pan 3 or 4 inches deep (big enough to hold all ingredients).Place a large sauté pan on medium flame and bring the bacon to crisp, remove and chop fine. Now, using the bacon fat soften the celery, onion, carrots and garlic.

When the vegetables have softened place half of the contents of the pan in the base of the roasting pan then add the chicken pieces, top with the rest of the vegetables and the bacon.
Next, using the same pan add the olive oil and the mushrooms and soften them, spread mushrooms on top of the chicken the sprinkle the chili over the top.
Finally, in the same pan combine the hot chicken stock with the tomato products (2) and the drained pozole, season liberally and pour over the top of the chicken in the roasting pan. Wrap the pan with plastic and refrigerate over night.

As dinner time comes into view (2 hours prior) bring your oven to 350 and remove the raguand the plastic wrap, now cover with foil and place in the oven. As the ragu cooks prepare whatever rice appeals, we like brown basmati in my house. Serve with corn bread and a seasonal salad.

Lobster and Roasted Beet Salad

2009-04-16T22:05:00.008-04:00

Hold the elevator, Jessica's on crutches. In Manhattan that doesn't happen too often, tonight was no exception. After receiving first class supervision from a friendly doorman at one of New York's finest hotels we followed a single woman in too much of a hurry to the elevator, she jumped on in front of us and pushed the button before we could step on.

Dinner was served on the 3rd floor an hour later. Jessica and I were in the company of friends, Karen and Peter Lawson Johnston, we all were interested in what the speaker Tom Brokaw had to say. Mr. Brokaw has spent the better part of his life reporting world events to the American public. Tonight he stood in the middle of a room full of Americans, talking about his view of our world today.

As an introduction he touched on significant phrases that he's heard over the past few weeks. The point that stood out for me came from his boss at NBC, the difference between historical economic adjustments and the present financial status...."think of it as a reset". Of course the challenging times we face require a word from our new vocabulary, RESET.. has no boundaries.

Brokaw went on to focus on who we are and how we must change our view. On more than one point he reminded the audience that we're "all in this together". Over the past several years the common view has been singular "it must become more about we than me". Of course he sited the "Greatest Generation" and how our grandparents made an effort to serve the people around them before they served themselves. He reminded this audience of sophisticated New Yorkers that it's become time to once again become a CITIZEN.

As we sat for dinner the first course was pre set at the table, a salad of mixed arugula and beet sprouts over thinly sliced roasted red beets and a few wedges of yellow beets. The salad was finished with a simple vinaigrette it could have been perfect, however over the top sat a sliced lobster tail.

Perhaps as our culture shifts from "me to we" the lobster tails might be better served on a dock, fresh from the kettle in all of it's goodness. In a more relaxed society our fellow citizens might wait for the slower paced citizens among us as our grandfathers would have done.
Let's slow down and hold the door.

Vegetable & Chicken Stir fry for 2

2009-03-24T22:25:00.004-04:00

Mansell went for a run this afternoon with me in Central Park. It was a fabulous day and we had a chance to make the most of our time together. Mansell’s enjoying her school and she’s focused on doing the best she possibly can in preparation for her upcoming high school applications (in September), and she’s open to the invitation to run with her Dad (I’m overjoyed).

Tonight we sat together at the dinner table and listened to our new President as he addressed the country. His message is what I think of as HEED focusing on H. Health insurance, E. Energy resources (renewable), E. Education & D. Deficit reduction. I’m on his side on HEED, I like his approach as he tackles the challenges of our times and quite frankly I like his swagger as he approached the podium.

On return from our outing we went to the grocery store with dinner in mind. At the Gourmet Garage we start in the vegetable section, the flavor base started with garlic, shallots, ginger and jalapeno. Then a package of chicken breast, broccolini, sliced peppers carrots and bean sprouts. As we moved through the starches we decided on a bag of brown basmati rice which we agreed should be first to hit the stove when we got home.

Vegetable & Chicken Stir fry for 2

2 knobs of ginger (peel & dice fine)
3 cloves garlic “ “
2 shallots “ “
1 jalipeno (seeded and diced fine0
1 carrot (shredded)
1 pound chicken breast (boneless, sliced into thin strips)
½ red pepper (sliced thin)
½ yellow pepper (sliced thin)
½ bunch broccolini ( tops)
1 cup bean sprouts
4 tablespoons soy sauce
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons agave syrup
pinch chili flakes
pinch salt
1 cup water
½ cup brown basmati rice

Start by rinsing the rice with cold water , begin heating the ½ cup of water over high heat.
Add the rinsed rice and when the water begins to boil reduce the heat to low, cover and cook for 30 minutes.

When the timer rings for 30 minutes turn the flame to off and leave the rice covered. Now add 2 tablespoons of oil to a large saute pan or wok bring to heat over high flame and then add the ginger, garlic, carrots and jalipeno. Stirring until the mixture begins to soften, about 1 minute. Next add the remaining oil and then the chicken piece by piece stirring often. When the chicken is warmed through add the broccolini and peppers and stir some more. After another minute sprinkle with salt and chili flakes to taste then add the soy and agave syrup. Stir for another minute then add the bean sprouts and stir until the sprouts are fully incorporated. Now plate the rice and then the stir fry and serve.

Red Lentil Crusted Cod over Gujillo

2009-02-20T00:21:00.002-05:00

Looking for a job can pull a guy in a hundred directions, that I slept at all last night is a miracle. I’m pushing a resume around because the horizon is dark and cloudy. Since November, my prospect of making a living through the Old Stove Pub has diminished. Not only because the building can’t service a restaurant in the winter months, it’s become obvious that my partner Brian doesn’t have an interest in running the marathon required to build a thriving restaurant business.

Today I met Mrs. Dorethea Bon Jovi, she was introduced to me by Jessica’s friend CC. The Bon Jovi’s have a busy life, 3 homes, 4 kids, a staff that includes a house manager, a cleaning team “the girls” and a full time chef. The chef who has been with them for over a year is moving on, I’ve interviewed for his job. It went well, I’ve been asked to return to Soho next Wednesday to audition. Jason the chef told me a little about what the family likes to eat, some like white food some eat everything. Jon likes chili’s Dorethea does not.

So I’ll write a menu for the Bon Jovi family as follows:

Red Lentil Crusted Cod (I saw a bag of red lentils in the pantry)
over guajillo sauce with edamami and jasmin rice.

The lentils are pureed and used to add a crisp edge to the fish,
roll the flesh in the crushed lentils then place them in a hot pan with
grapeseed oil, 2 minutes. Transfer to a dry pan and place in a 400 oven
For 12-15 minutes.

In a separate sauce pan bring 2 cups of water to a boil season with seasalt, place 2 cups of edamame in the water and cook for 5-7 minutes until soft. To serve place 3 tablespoons of guajillo chili sauce in the center of the plate, then 2 tablespoons of rice on the side, top the soup with the fish (lentils up)then sprinkle the beans around the fish.

To start I’ll serve an arugala salad with grapefruit slices and raddiccio, the salad will be topped with a timbal of crabmeat.

The table will be set with a side plate and each setting will have turtle rolls on the side so they can eat as the wait for the salad.

Finally, for dessert a thin slice of flan with berries.

Winter Chicken & Vegetable Soup

2009-01-28T11:18:00.003-05:00

Lots of time between entries, the world has changed since July 4, 2008. Estelle and I parted ways in September. She left The Bridge first, for the season. I closed the kitchen on Nov. 3rd. Estelle will remain the exec. chef, I will seek new employment. The Bridge lasted until late November, a good season. Brian and I continue to campaign the property, hard to predict it’s reopening schedule. The world’s economic balance has shifted, like a slick log on a river.

Today I helped a friend prepare chicken soup for her table, I was asked to help teacher a basic first step. The process seems easy, try it and see.

1 butternut squash ( a small one)….peel, seed and dice the size of your thumb nail
4 carrots…peel and dice to the same size as above
6 stalks of celery….again cut to the same size (reserve tops and heart for stock)
1 large white onion….dice heart to pinky nail size…..(use trim in stock)
1 bunch parsley….rinse and remove stems…chop the leaves…stems in the stock
½ bunch cilantro…same process as parsley
1 red pepper….diced to the size of the celery
2 zucchini…..diced to the same size
1 large can of chicken stock
1 (4 lb) chicken roasted……shred all the meat….use the bones in the stock
¼ cup veg oil

Combine all trim for stock in a stock pot and add a splash of oil, start over high heat stirring then add water to cover after 5 minutes. Bring to a boil then reduce heat to simmer. Next combine all of the diced vegetables with the remaining oil and spread on a sheet pan (or 2). Place in a pre heated 375 oven, stir after 10 minutes.

When the vegetables have been roasted for 25 minutes remove from oven. Then strain the stock and combine the cleaned stock with the canned broth and bring to a boil. Now add the roasted veg. and the chicken meat, finally season with salt, pepper, a pinch of ground ginger, ground cumin and granulated garlic. Taste and adjust. Chill then cover and freeze.

This recipe is intend for service at a later date, freeze half of it in 3 separate containers. Fill them 2/3 of the way then dust each with ½ of the chopped herb. In the remaining soup add the rest of the herb and refrigerate. Serve the soup with rice or pasta if you’d like to add starch.

Old Stove Pub

2008-07-04T14:14:00.005-04:00

Bob Rubin installed an air conditioning unit in the kitchen at The Bridge, it works well. The job is challenging, not the cooking….dealing with Estelle the chef. She and I don’t share much in the way of common respect. I made a mistake early on and didn’t show a passion for her recipes, as a result we have become like 2 magnets dancing away from each other at every turn. Tonight the Bridge will serve the first Friday night dinner of the season. Her menu came out yesterday and I’ve not seen one dish plated yet, strange management technique.

My other news includes a long shuttered Greek style steakhouse on Montauk highway called the Old Stove Pub. I was hired as it’s consulting chef back in April by Brian Murray a real estate investor who plans to swing a new development designed for residential use on the 14 acre lot that runs next to the 2.5 acre restaurant piece. My job is to run the same menu that Steven Johnadies, the owner since 1969 had established. We opened the "Old Stove" on Tuesday last week. I start my day at The Bridge at 6:30 am then headed to Sag Harbor at 3:30 to check on the Little Kitchen then on to the the "Old Stove"to cook steaks & chops from 4 to 10pm. The hours of operation at the "Old Stove" are limited until my new hire Rueben Bravo joins me in the end of next week, we're serving Sunday to Thursday right now so that I can do dinners at "The Bridge" on Friday and Saturday. It’s a wild ride.

Garden Fresh Arugala Vinaigrette

2008-06-09T18:05:00.003-04:00

The temperature hit 95 yesterday, no air conditioning in the kitchen here at "The Bridge" made for an uncomfortable shift. My high point was a harvest visit to the clubs' kitchen garden. There’s a valley below the entrance to the clubhouse here, about 250 yards from the kitchen door. The garden sits in an old sandy road bed, contained by a 12 foot fence, supported by a high tech watering system in all about 3000 square feet. Bob Rubin thought it would be a good addition to the grounds, he did it right. The soil is 50/50 blend of compost and topsoil from Long Island compost, it measures about 18 inches in depth and has proven a perfect host for everything that I’ve planted to date.

On Saturday evening we produced our first cocktail party of the season. It was a birthday party for one of the members wives, 75 people, 6-8pm.The kitchen staff had prepared a variety of passed hors d'oeuvres and a raw bar. The crowd hardly touched the food. As a result we had a good deal of freezing to do, the club staff has also been eating well since then. Apparently the guests all had reservations and chose not to ruin their appetite.

Tuna was a big hit at the opening luncheon the following day and even more sushi grade tuna remained. On Sunday at lunch the family meal included a grilled fresh tuna wrap, it was finished with and arugula vinaigrette finished with ginger and garlic. I used the same puree whisked with red wine vinegar and EVO to toss with a salad of garden greens, radishes and spring onions. This puree would also serve well on a sliced hanger steak or on rare slice tuna steak off the grill.

2 bunches of cleaned fresh arugula
1 knob of fresh ginger, peeled & chopped
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped
¼ cup EVO

6 tablespoons fresh lime juice salt & red pepper flakes

Blend all in a processor until smooth.

Cool Spinach and Onion dip

2008-05-12T15:03:00.003-04:00

It’s a quiet morning on the ridge line, when the wind blows hard (as it is today) the clubhouse at "The Bridge" moans and groans under the stress that its sail like design catches every blast of north wind, only the sound of whistles and howls gets through. The dining room with its 20 mile view over Shelter Island and beyond is still, not a breath of wind moves into the air tight chamber.

Mothers day weekend has come and gone, the kitchen team here had high hopes for a busy lunch shift, keenly interested in honing our skills with the menu that will grow larger and more complicated as the season progresses. We have a few veterans of last years service with us. The design of this room is more streamlined after the first season exposed assorted foibles and flow problems. It’s all straight out now and the chance to test our understanding of the plates and begin too choreograph the dance of a busy lunch service will require an active member involvement. It didn’t happen this weekend, 31 covers on Saturday and 21 on Sunday, Mothers day.

Since work required my attention on Sunday we made Saturday night the evening to celebrate our mothers and wives. A dinner party at home included the Briggs family (Geoffry & Roaxanne) Phobe was in town from her school Brooks, along with Bailey and Madeline her sisters. The Consuelos family (Mark and Kelly) attended with their children Michael, Lulu and Waukeen. Finally we enjoyed Christina and Johnny Muse as the only child free team in the group. The menu was a season opener on my new grill (an early anniversary gift from Jessica) of sirloin steak, roasted chicken stuffed with herbs, garlic and lemon. We filled a large roasting tray with 3 stuffed birds seasoned with Hymalain salt and fresh ground black pepper. On the rack below a ½ sheet pan covered with Idaho potatoes, sliced in half and rubbed cut side down with butter, Whittier was happy to handle this task. The chicken and potatoes went in a 375 oven at 6:30 in anticipation of 8pm service. Meanwhile Lyman trimmed green beans and peeled carrots, the green beans were blanched and shocked while the carrots were split and quartered and then tossed with EVO and lemons, then spread out evenly on a ½ sheet pan with 2 cups of water added and roasted on top of the potatoes, they went in the oven at 7:15. Mansell set the table and looked after the final touches like candles and flowers. Kelly brought homemade vanilla cup cakes with chocolate frosting for dessert, she made them in her new Electoroluxe oven which she loves.

My first contribution to the offering at The Bridge is a vegetable dip for the bar. It hasn't been approved by the Executive chef Estelle Arould who is away with her daughter in Florida until Memorial Day whoever I’m told that hungry golfers who enter the bar after the kitchen closes at 3 pm have enjoyed the fresh taste. Served with carrot sticks and celery it compliments the other choice of salted nuts on the bar.

Cool Spinach and Onion dip

5 oz plain yogurt
10 oz sour cream
2 small red onions chopped
2 cloves garlic chopped
1 liter fresh spinach, blanched and squeezed dry, chopped
3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
salt pepper to taste

Begin by sweating the onions and garlic in 2 tablespoons of oil over medium heat, as they begin to caramelize remove and cool. Combine all ingredient in a processor and run until smooth. Hold cold for at least 2 hours prior to serving.

Grapefruit Glazed Chicken Breast

2008-04-15T18:02:00.002-04:00

Tax day, the checks have been mailed (at 4:50pm in the general box at the East Hampton
Post office, the line was out the door). After my trip to Gay lane I headed to the golf course for a round in the perfect light of an East End spring evening. As I stepped off the 3rd tee looked back toward the clubhouse I watched an osprey hunting over the second cut on the 16th fairway. It’s wings backing up holding the big bird in place as it eyed the movement of a rodent below.

After putting on the 13th green, ocean side, I dropped my putter near the flag and took a moment to step up on the dune and admire the perfect blue of todays’ ocean. The tide was out and the waves rolled in gently, touching the dog tracks that ran from Wyborg to the
Jetty. This was my moment to relate thanks to my higher power, I’m lucky to be alive today.

For dinner I started with 1 cup of Lundberg Countrywild whole grain brown rice in 2 cups of water, then added 1 tablespoon of butter, 1 teaspoon of fresh picked thyme and ½ cup of mixed/dried mushrooms, cover tightly. Simmer over low heat for 45 minutes, turn off the flame and let sit until service. As the rice cooked I started an artichoke, having trimmed the stem and removed the tips of the leaves I swirled a drizzle of EVO over the top and dusted it with garlic salt. Placed in a small sauce pan the artichoke is steamed in an inch of water for about 30 minutes. The main course was Veal Picatta, very easy to make in the remaining 25 minutes. Start by placing the veal cutlets on a cutting board and pound them thin (but not like paper) then transfer them to a plate that’s been covered with all purpose flour and a table spoon of kosher salt. Lightly coat the cutlets with the flour and transfer them to a hot flat skillet with a pool of melted butter, when the cultlets begin to brown flip them add a bit more buter, season with salt and white pepper and then right when they are ready (about 5 minutes in all), squeeze ½ a lemon over the top and plate with the rice.

1 cup whole grain rice
½ stick of unsalted butter
½ cup dried mixed mushrooms
1 teaspoon thyme
1 artichoke (cut it in half w/ a serated knife before steaming if serving for 2)
2 tablespoons EVO, 1 teaspoon garlic salt
¾ pound veal cutlet (6 pieces for 2)
1 cup all purpose flour
5/1/08

The past three weeks have started in a new light for me, literally. Every morning since
April 7th I’ve rolled out of bed at 5:45 am. It’s been far easier than I imagined, when the
windows in our bedroom begin to hold light my internal alarm shakes a bell. How this happens I’m not sure but I’ve been diligent about laying down by 10:30 every night. I’m up early because by 6:45 am the Bridge requires my full attention.

Working on a Bridgehampton ridge line that is The Bridge golf club has opened my eyes to a new world in food service. Because it’s a premium private club, only available to members who have invested a kings ransom to use the facility, we must be ready to serve a full menu for breakfast and lunch. Interesting to note that there isn’t even a breakfast menu although we are to be prepared for most any request. To date our busiest day has been 27 guests, today we served no one.

The course is magnificent, the kitchen rocks, and every member of the staff seems happy
to be there. It will take some time to get used to this off season rhythm but I know when the members arrive it’ll be a wild ride.

My favorite part of the job to date has been preparing family meal, of course it’s all about
making the most of unsold food. The juice order stands for 2 gallons of OJ and 1 gallon of Grapefruit, demand at this time has been limited and the staff has more interest in OJ than grapefruit. With ¾ of a gallon of grapefruit juice left over, still viable I decided to reduce it to a glaze and add fresh ginger.

Grapefruit glazed chicken breast w/ ginger & garlic green beans & basmati rice (serves 4)

4 chicken breasts (boneless, skinless), sliced into 3 long thin pieces
1 large knob of ginger, diced fine
3 cloves garlic, diced fine
1 quart grapefruit juice (this recipe doesn’t serve a golf club staff)
4 tablespoons blended oil
3 cups green beans, stems removed and blanched
1.5 cups basmati rice
3 cups water

Start by simmering the grapefruit juice over a low flame until the liquid is reduced by half, then add all but 2 tablespoons of the chopped ginger.

Prepare the rice by rinsing it first in a colander then add it to a pot with the water. Bring to a boil over high heat then reduce to low and cover for 20 minutes. Don’t remove the lid, set aside until service.

In a large sauté pan add the oil and the ginger & garlic, bring the flame to high. Now add the beans and stir constantly. Grill the chicken breast and toss with ½ cup grapefruit glaze. Plate the rice and beans and top with the chicken then drizzle more sauce.

Shrimp & Vegetable Stir Fry

2008-03-06T12:58:00.002-05:00

The Little Kitchen is on the market now. A bitter sweet situation as the price, if it sells
will go along way toward supporting our family in the years to come. I’ve put all I can
into the business over the years including moving profits from the sale of our Amagansett
Café into the mortgage in Sag Harbor. Today we have a productive little business that
keeps 6 people fully employed and it provides me with a part time commitment. I’ve put it on the market as a test to see if the value really does exceed 2 million dollars. If that’s the case it’s time to sell and open a new chapter in my life. If not, we’ll stay the course.

On Wednesday night the kids had a dinner at home prepared by Nanny Mimi, she makes a great effort but sometimes the results fall short of expectations. That was the case on this particular Taco Night. Jess called on Thursday morning asking if I might come in to prepare “a healthy” dinner for the girls prior to our outing to a political fund raiser hosted by out friend and neighbor Cash Conway.

My bus arrived on 85th street from East Hampton @ 3:30 and as I walked up 3rd ave. I stopped in the first food store that I passed to pick up vegetables. Then, further up the street into the fish store for a pound of shrimp in the shell.

Shrimp & Vegetable stir fry w/ Lundgren’s wild rice mix

Clean and devane all shrimp (1 lb 16-20 Tiger shrimp)
1 bunch asparagus (Cut into 2 inch pieces on the bias)
1 yellow pepper
1 red pepper (both seeded and sliced into thin pieces)
1bunch scallions (sliced like the asparagus)
1 head of broccoli ( florets cut into bit size pieces, stems peeled and diced)
4 cloves garlic, slice all but 1
1 knob of ginger (the size off your thumb), peel and slice into thin pieces
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ cup soy sauce
¼ cup citrus juice (grapefruit for this dinner)
2 tablespoons sweet rice wine vinegar
4 tablespoons orange marmalade
½ teaspoon chili flakes

Begin by placing the shrimp shells and 1whole garlic clove in a sauce pan with 1 tablespoon of oil over high heat, stirring until they begin to turn pink and get crisp. Now take all of the rest of the waste from the vegetables (ginger trim, scallion trim, pepper seeds ect. and stir them all together w/ the shrimp shells). After a minute reduce heat to medium and add the soy sauce, citrus, vinegar, marmalade and chili flakes. Stir and reduce by half, then strain the sauce and reserve for service, discard the solids.

Refer to the directions for your chosen rice and start preparation according to your service plan. Once the rice has been cooked, turn off the heat, leave covered and allow to rest. At this time place a large sautee pan or a wok over high heat and add remaining oil, add the ginger and garlic and stir, follow soon after with the broccoli and asparagus stir for a minute or 2 and then add the rest of the vegetables and shrimp. Stir constantly, add a bit more oil if needed. When the shrimp have cooked through the dish is ready. Plate the rice first, then just prior to service bring the shrimp & veg to high heat, stir in the sauce and plate along side the rice immediately. Try not to stem the dish in the sauce, simply bring it to temp. and serve.

Chicken

2008-02-25T10:05:00.004-05:00

On Sunday afternoon lunch was served in Bob and Stephane Rubins dining room. They started with an espresso cup containing an organic vegetable puree with mini croutons and pomegranate syrup. Course two featured angel hair pasta in a pool of Parmesan broth, topped with a greenhouse salad from Quail Hill tossed in a red wine vinaigrette and topped with 2 poached quail eggs. The fish course utilized red lentils 2 ways, poached in a shrimp/saffron stock and crushed and crusted on local skin on cod over asparagus. The trick with the red lentil crust seems to be a dip flesh side down in egg whites and then a press in the ground red lentil, transfer to a preheated skillet over high heat with a shot of grapeseed oil. The color was brilliant, everyone seemed pleased and the offered me the job. I accepted, we begin preparing the kitchen for year 2 of service on April 1.

Curry and I ran to the golf course today, then we walked to the 9th tee box and did some calisthenics over looking the ocean. She’s holding up well for a 13 year old lab. Our walks to the beach seem to give her a spark, Curry’s a happy dog. We saw the swans sailing about on the pond as we returned across the bridge. The sun was low in the sky, pink and orange bounced across the surface. The birds, surrounded by all the migrating ducks and geese that they share the pond with, stood out like sloops with shoots up amid a fleet of spectators in the America’s cup.

Tonight dinner came from Tony at Iaconna’s chicken farm. I purchased his last bird, already cut into 8 pieces. When I stepped in the door he asked me if the bird was going to be cooked tonight? It’s best to allow the freshly killed birds a day to rest prior to cooking. I was happy to purchase the pre cut chicken. When Curry and I stepped out of the car we walked over to the herb garden, dormant with the exception of rosemary which seems hardier than all other varieties in the soil. The chicken pieces were combined in a bowl with 3 cloves of garlic (peeled and crushed), a hand full of fresh rosemary, 2 tablespoons of olive oil and 3 tablespoons of Dijon mustard. When we returned from our walk I placed the contents of the bowl on a roasting pan, seasoned it with salt and pepper and placed it in a 375 oven for 20 minutes. When the bell rang it was time to add 6 peeled potatoes and roll them in the fat on the bottom of the pan. After another 10 minutes I added 1 head of broccoli cut into florets. The dish was ready 5 minutes later.

1 4 lb chicken cut into 8 pieces
3 cloves fresh garlic, peeled and crushed
3 tablespoons fresh rosemary, stems removed
3 tablespoons olive oil
6 small potatoes, peeled and rinsed
1 head of broccoli, cut into florets
salt & pepper

Phesant

2008-02-20T18:26:00.003-05:00

The pond in February is a haven for ducks, geese, a few blue herons and the same 2 swans that draw my attention every time I walk the dog. Today could have been a scene from Dark shadows, a fog hung heavy over the East end. For the first time in a month I came across a deer crossing the 13th fairway, it watched me and then caught wind of the dog. Bounding left to right, white tail in full display it was gone in an instant.

A new chef position has come into view, in the end of January I heard that the new
Bridgehampton Golf club “The Bridge” has been searching for a sous chef. The idea of following someone elses lead was interesting to me so I followed up. After attempting direct contact to no avail I called my friend Marvin Shanken, a member of The Bridge and he opened the door. A few weeks later in mid February I was invited to meet with the clubs General manager Roger, that interview lead to a meeting with the owner Bob Rubin and his wife Stephane which lead to a test luncheon prepared with the executive chef Estelle at Rubin’s home in Watermill.

This recipe was taught to me by Estelle, an attractive well traveled French woman who
opened the kitchen at The Bridge last year for the first season. Our introduction started the day before the lunch at The Little Kitchen, she had been flown up from Florida to meet me and supervise a meal, allowing her to get to know me and work with me in an informal setting. Her menu included a watercress soup which was a simple puree of water cress, shallots, and a splash of cream finished with a swirl of crème fraiche and a garnish of pepper cress from the Quail hill green house. The main course was roasted pheasant stuffed with foie gras and truffles served with a cranberry puree and a toss of sautéed root vegetables from Quail Hills’ root cellar.

The pheasant recipe called for black truffles marinated in cognac for 48 hours with pepper corns and a pinch of salt. The pheasants were rinsed first then she placed a few sprigs of thyme in each pheasant cavity followed by ¼ lobe of foie gras and a few table spoons of truffles. She then sewed the stuffed birds shut, rolled them for a few minutes in a hot oiled pan and the placed them in a deep roasting pan. Important to note that prior to putting the lid on the pan she prepared a simple batter of flour and water and rimmed the Roasting pan with it the placed the lid on top. The dish was roasted at 375 for 1 hour, as it cooked the batter sealed the lid to hold in all essence.

Serves 4

2 pheasants (2.5 to 3lb. ea)
1 small lobe of foie gras
1 black perigord truffle sliced thin (marinate in cognac for 48 hours w/8 peppercorns )
1 bunch fresh thyme
1 cup flour
½ cup water salt & pepper to taste
1 cup grapeseed oil

Butternut squash soup

2008-02-05T19:00:00.000-05:00

2 pieces butternut squash, split and seeded
2 cup turnips, peeled and diced
1 large celery root, peeled and quartered
½ cup Spanish onion ½ inch pieces
½ cup olive oil
2 cups chicken stock
½ cup white wine
1 cup heavy cream
salt & white pepper to taste

Pre heat oven to 375, rub all vegetables and place them on sheet pans.
Roast for 30-45 minutes until they begin to soften (onions will be ready first).
Bring the liquids to a simmer together in a soup pot.

When the butternut squash is soft remove the flesh from its shell and place in a food
processor, run on low setting slowly drizzling the hot liquid in as you puree, then add the rest of the vegetables cut into smaller pieces. When the whole recipe is in the processor (or blender) run on high for 30 seconds or until smooth then taste and season.

Serve with small croutons and a drizzle of reduced pomegranate juice or pomegranate molasses.

Sea Scallop Schnitzel

2008-02-04T13:56:00.004-05:00

As winters go this has been mild, no heavy freeze, very little snow, plenty of weekday customers at The Little Kitchen. A nice change from past winters filled with snow plowing, frozen pipes and empty dining rooms.

The same pair of swans move about on Hook pond enjoying the mild winter. My neighbor Lisa Ryan told me that another Dunemere lane resident Doug Mercer saved the frozen swan and delivered it to the wild life rescue center. Apparently the approach that worked involved walking out on the ice and placing a cloth bag over the bird's head. This calms them enough to move to a safer place. As for the remaining pair they spend most of their time working in the same location of last springs nest.

In the last week of January on the 26th, a Saturday night we hosted a German Inspired Dinner featuring wines from the Wolffer estate. I was pleased to watch as the reservation book filled up in the hours that followed the news letters release to the people on Wolffers’ List. In the end 65 people attended the 2 seatings. We started with a butternut squash soup finished with croutons and pomegranate molasses served in an espresso cup. The first course was a sea scallop schnitzel, a suggestion form Charlie Palmer, plated with micro greens and a whole grain mustard hollandaise. Course 2 utilized whole wheat pappardelle noodles tossed in a sauce made with shitake mushrooms, shallots, chicken stock, herbs, sour cream and heavy cream. It was finished with a garnish of chanterell mushrooms that were tossed in garlic oil and roasted then rolled in chopped fine herb. The meat course featured pork shoulder braised in Wolffer Big Apple Wine, served over greens from the Quail hill green house with sweet potato batons and the apple wine reduction. Dessert made use of Fuji apples from the Milk Pail in Watermill, tossed with cinnamon, raisins and walnuts and rolled in filo pastry brushed with butter. Roasted and cut into 2 inch cylinders, the “Apple Strudel” was plated with vanilla bean whipped cream.

Sea Scallop Schnitzel

2 lb 10-20 sea scallops
3 cups squid bodies, sliced into thin rings
½ cup shallots
2 cups Wolffer ver juice
¾ cup egg whites
2 cups panko bread crumbs
½ cup chopped parsley & oregano
½ tablespoon sea salt
1 cup grapeseed oil

Combine the squid rings, shallots and ver juice (or white wine) in a sauce pan over low heat, bring to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes. Remove from heat and strain, allow the squid to cool then puree in a food processor or blender with egg whites. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the herb and salt.

Slice the scallops into 3 thin pieces, maintining the round shape. If they still have the cartaledge

remove tose tough pieces first.

Set a baking sheet on the counter and then line the bottom of a foil cupcake cup with 3 pieces of scallop then add a spoonful of squid puree and top with 3 more scallop slices. Then flip the cup over onto the sheet pan and repeat until you are finished with the squid mixture. It should yield about 12 cakes.

Preheat the oven to 375 about 20 minutes before service and place ½ of the oil in a flat bottom skillet over medium flame. Now dust the cakes with panko and pat the breadcrumbs down then flip the cakes over and repeat. Place the cakes in the skillet 3 at a time cooking for about 2 minutes until brown on each side then transfer to a baking sheet in the oven (refresh the oil ½ way through) bake the cakes for 10 minutes than serve immediately with a micro green and blanched celery salad in citrus vinaigrette.

Manilla Clam and Parsley Spaghetti

2008-01-09T18:31:00.002-05:00

The swans have moved on, most of them anyhow. On my run to the beach this afternoon I only saw 2 mixed in with the hundreds of Canada geese that reside on Hook pond this time of the year. Last week we had a cold spell with the temperature dipping into the teens for several days. As the pond began to freeze solid I came across an older swan in a small hole in the ice just to the south of the 4th tee box. The bird was moving in a sluggish manner and had little room to move. I did my best to get it to fly by brushing a long branch within 2 feet of the hole in the ice, to no avail. The next day as it was even colder I set out to check and found the bird totally frozen in but still alive, there was nothing to do but wait. That night the weather broke and in the morning of the third day the temperature had reached 40 degrees. In the afternoon I was pleased to see that the hole was empty and it appeared that there had been no struggle as I checked the remaining Ice. Today the ice is gone and the thermometer outside our kitchen door reads 52 degrees.

Mid winter heat waves are always welcome. One of the benefits that I revel in is the return of my parsley in the planter outside our kitchen door in East Hampton. It’s Wednesday night and I’m on my own having just returned from New York. The kids are out to dinner at the Italian restaurant Vicco on Madison ave. with Jess so I’ve decided to have some pasta too.

Manilla clam and parsley spaghetti with garlic and chili flakes

¼ box spaghetti
2 dozen Manilla clams, scrub clean with cold water and a clean scrub pad
3 cloves of garlic chopped
3 tablespoons of fresh chopped flat leaf parsley
½ teaspoon red chili flakes
½ cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons sea salt
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 small wedge Parmesan reggiano

Fill a 2 quart sauce pan ½ way with water and bring it to a boil, then salt it with sea salt.
Add the pasta and maintain the boil.

In a sauté pan combine the olive oil with the garlic and chili flakes over medium heat. As the garlic begins to sizzle add the clams then the wine, bring to a boil. When the clams open add the parsley and finally the drained pasta. Serve on a large plate and finish with grated parmesan cheese.

Penne and Ham

2007-12-26T20:50:00.001-05:00

Upon arrival in Hobe sound on Christmas Day we enjoyed a dinner of Baked Ham and
asparagus with Frank Mansell and his girlfriend Sandy Taylor. Frank’s faithful chef Kreta has loosened her grip on the kitchen just enough to allow me the honor of preparing the occasional meal for my children. On the second day after Christmas I was allowed access to make pasta for Whittier as she wasn’t invited to dinner at The Yacht club due to the rules, you must be 10 to dine there for regular dinner service, Whittie's just 9.

The dish we chose was a holiday take on pasta Carbonnara, this recipe calls for baked ham instead of prosciutto or bacon. Based on what was in the pantry we also made it with penne, generally the choice would be fettuccine or some other noodle.

½ box penne pasta
2 whole eggs, beat in a bowl until they begin to foam
1 cup half & half
¼ cup grated parmesan
½ cup chicken stock
3 tablespoons olive oil
¼ small white onion diced fine
1 garlic clove diced fine
½ cup baked ham diced fine
1 bunch pencil thin asparagus

Start by bringing 1 quart of water to a boil and salt it to taste, when it’s at a rolling boil, add the penne and cook for 5 minutes.

As the pasta cooks start a sautee pan on medium heat and add the onions and garlic along with olive oil. As they begin to simmer place the asparagus in the pan and turn until its coated then add the chicken stock. Bring to a boil and continue cooking for 1 minute then remove to plates.

Now add the half & half to the sautee pan, followed by the eggs, stir until incorporated and then turn flame to low. Now stir until it begins to thicken, at this point the pasta is ready to drain and add to the egg mixture, follow with ham and then cheese stirring all along. When the sauce begins to tighten up remove and plate.

2007-12-21T13:37:00.003-05:00

Kitchens in Charlie Palmer’s newest restaurant at Dallas’s newest hotel The Joule are large and shiny, designed to serve tables in Charlie’s dining room and the hotels luxurious rooms and banquet facilities. They'll even provide meals to all employees in the hotel and the restaurant, a big job that requires precision almost 24 hours a day.

My contribution was to provide an extra set of hands, in return I was able to see how a new venture of Charlie’s takes flight, the hotels rooms were not yet open, the dining room was only in its third day of service when I arrived and after a weekend of friends and family they opened for business quietly with no promotion and very little word of mouth. An intentional move that was designed to allow the team time to work out any opening kinks before the Dallas fine dining community starts to put the service under a microscope.

The executive chef, Scott Romano is a confident young man who’s worked for Charlie since starting his career 11 years ago. I first met him at the James Beard house in 1998, we were on Charlie’s team when he served a $30,000. Diner party along with Daniel Bolude and Charlie Trotter. More recently I interviewed Scott for my 2004 article Kitchen doors New York. At that time he was the chef at Charlie’s casual price fix concept Kitchen 82 on Manhattan’s upper west side. Since that time he’s run the kitchen at Charlie’s catering facility Astra in the D & B building in Los Angeles. With enough energy to rise at 9am and work until midnight 7 shifts a week he’s the perfect man for the job, stern when he needs to be and a leader with enthusiasm for excellent food Scott made my time in Charlie’s kitchen memorable.

The dishes that caught my attention includes a sashimi salad with celery leaf, frizza and shallots topped with thin slices of raw white tuna and slivers of capicola in a rice wine vinaigrette. I spent my first day preparing the angolatti pasta filled with herbed Ricotta cheese and mascarpone, once on the plate it’s finished with grated Parmesan and lightly fried shitake mushrooms.